PUNK FASHION: PUNK IS NOT WHAT YOU WEAR BUT WHO YOU ARE

Punk fashion is the styles of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, and body modifications of the Punk subculture. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including Glam Rock, Skinheads, Rude Boys, and Mods has influenced Punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of popular culture. Punk uses clothing as a way of making a statement. The original Punk fashions of the 70’s were intended to appear as confrontational, shocking and rebellious as possible. This style of punk dress was significantly different from what would later be considered the basic Punk look. Many items that were commonly worn by punks in the 70’s became less common later on, and new elements were constantly added to the punk image.

Deliberately offensive T-shirts were popular in the early punk scene. Punk mostly uses T-shirts feature Crucifix and a Nazi Swastika. These T-shirts, like other punk clothing items, were often torn on purpose. Other items in the early British Punk fashion included Anarchy symbols, brightly-colored or white and black dress T-shirts, fake blood, patches, and deliberately controversial images such as the portraits of Marx, Stalin and Mussolini were popular. Leather rocker jackets and customised blazers were early, and are still a common fixture of punk fashion.

For footwear, Punk usually uses military boots, steel-toe boots, motorcycle boots, Chuck Taylor Converse All-Stars, and Dr. Martens boots. But nowadays, leather boots is very synonym with Punk subculture especially the black or dark-coloured boots.

For jeans, it is commonly dirty, torn or splattered with bleach. This style is very famous among the Punkers. Punk commonly wears skinny jeans, tight leather pants, pants with leopard patterns, and Tartans pants or skirts were commonly worn or popular choices.

Punk hair style was cropped and deliberately made to look messy, in reaction to the long smooth hairstyles that were common in the 60’s and early 70’s. Hair was often dyed bright unnatural colours. Although provocative, these hairstyles were not as extreme as later punk hairstyles, such as liberty spikes or the Mohawk hairstyle.

Hence, Punk fashion added with some accessories to feature the rebel attitude.

Other accessories worn by some punks included fishnet socks and it sometimes ripped, studded or spiked, safety pins in clothes and as body piercings, silver bracelets and heavy eyeliner worn by both men and women. Many female punks rebelled against the stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were tantalizing or pretty with clothes that were considered masculine, such as combining a Bellet dress-up with boots.

PUNK DANCE: STREET ART FOR ALL AGES

Punk dance, it is sound so funny, but this is another branch of Punk art along with Punk music. Punk dance commonly performed at punk shows, these dances often appear chaotic or even violent, though they are often not with violent intent, but rather for fun. Unlike Hip Hop dance and breakdancing, punk dances are intended to be performed in crowded place. The dances are such Pogo, Moshing, Stage Diving, Crowd Surfing and Skanking. Let’s we go one by one.
The pogo is a dance where the dancers jump up and down, while remaining in the same location, especially in a common version of the dance, where an individual keeps their chest stiff, their arms rigid, and their legs close together. Although just as often, pogo dancers will wave their arms around wildly while thrashing their bodies about. Occasionally, dancers collide, but this is not necessarily part of pogo dancing. An uninformed bystander might get the impression that the dancers are attacking one another. People sometimes get injured when pogoing, but, more often than not, pogoers who fall to the ground are helped up instead of getting crushed. There is a general understanding that the pogo is fun, not a fight.
Moshing is another Punk art of dance. Moshing or slamming refer to the activity in which audience members at live music performances aggressively push or slam into each other. It is typically done in an area in front of the stage which is referred as the mosh pit or simply pit. While Moshing is seen as a form of positive feedback or reflection of enjoyment from live performances, it has also drawn some controversy over its dangerous nature. However, it is generally agreed that moshers are not trying to harm one another and follow an unwritten "moshing etiquette", or pit hospitality, which promotes safety through behaviours such as immediately helping fallen audience members back to their feet to avoid their being crushed.
On the other hand, Stage Diving is the act of leaping from a concert stage onto the crowd below. Initially seen as confrontational and extreme, stage diving has become common at Punk and rock performances. Many musicians have made stage diving a part of their stage act. Stage diving can cause serious injuries, as the stage diver can fail to be caught by the audience below and hit the floor with some force, sometimes head land first. Stage divers can also injure the people on whom they land, or knock them over to be crushed by the dancing crowd.
Crowd surfing can easily be describes the process in which a person is passed overhead from person to person during a concert, transferring the person from one part of the venue to another. The surfer is passed above everyone's heads, with everyone's hands supporting the surfer. At most concerts and festivals, the crowd surfer will be passed towards a barrier in front of the stage by the crowd, where they will be pulled off and put onto their feet by the security. Then, they will be sent back to the side or rear of the crowd at the end of the barrier or they may be ejected from the venue.
The last dance called Skanking. The dance style originated in the 50’s or 60’s at Jamaican dance halls, where ska music was played. The British Mods and Skinheads of the 60’s adopted these types of dances and introduced it. But, the Punk version features a sharp striking out look with the arms and is sometimes used in moshing to knock around others doing the same. For punk version, it can be seen during Ska Punk band performance.

UNDERGROUND vs MAINSTREAM: WHICH SIDE ARE YOU FIGHTING FOR?

Which one is really suitable for a Punk Rock band whether stand beneath the flag of underground pride or just blindly put their band future’s with the mainstream instruction? If we make some polls for this question, absolutely a lot of Punk Rock lovers will answer being an underground band is much better for a Punk Rock band because of musically freedom, free from commercialize world, DIY ethics, and resembles the Punk attributes itself.

Nowadays, underground music always being a casualty of misunderstood among the naïve people. When we ask a common man about underground music, supposedly they will answer underground music a set of song that loud, fast, harsh and insult lyric, noise and etc. It is definitely not. Underground is a term to determine the status of a band in term of their management, movement, record distribution and band or artiste promotion. So, we cannot easily claim a specific genre as underground. For instance, a Black Metal can be a mainstream band if the band signs up a contract under the major label even though the music is very heavy instead, a mellow-pop band can be an underground if the band sign up under the independent label. In this case, mainstream band will be managed under major label with mainstream style and underground band will be managed under independent label with underground style. So, think about it carefully.

Another thing relate with this case is the usage of independent word. Independent is the status of underground band which the band is under contract of independent label. The word spoke widely by common people. What makes it confuse? The first confusion is about independent music or in short indie. Indie is a kind of music genre. The word independent in this case is refer to the band that play Indie music where the music root is come from the 60’s UK pop and emerged during the 80’s UK music scene. The band example is Oasis, Blur, The Stone Roses, The Smiths, Ocean Colour Scene and in Malaysia like Hujan, OAG, The Times, Bittersweet etc. So, all of these bands we call as independent band in term of music. Then, another independent case is, a band under contract with an independent label but the band play different music than Indie. So, the band called independent band as well. For instance like a Punk Rock band from America call Rancid plays Punk Rock music but the band is under the management of independent label, so Rancid is an independent band even though they play Punk Rock.

To make underground and mainstream more obvious, let’s compare it along with the example. Firstly, in term of recording company or label, underground band will sign up with independent label and mainstream band will sign up with major label. In this case, underground band is more free to play music because independent label is independently to let their band without put so much condition during recording contract deal. However, mainstream band has lack of musically freedom because of the recording contract conditions from major label. The example of major label is EMI and Sony BMG. Epitaph and Hellcat Record are the instance for independent label. Secondly, in term of promotion. Mainstream band will be promoted in the mainstream media like newspaper, entertainment magazines, television and radio. They have a huge musical scope because the major label’s aim is popularity and profits. Then, underground band will be promoted in the underground scene like fanzines, gig flyers, gig and news letter. So, the musical scope is limited because the aim of independent label is the music produced only for its followers and popularity is not important. Thirdly, in term of record distribution. Mainstream band record is available in music store anywhere because the musical scope is huge. Underground band record is available only in selected music store, jamming studio and gig because the musical scope is limited and the music produced is only for their followers.

PUNK HISTORY: IT IS ANOTHER SORT OF COUNTER-CULTURE

Back in the late 50’s, world political situation was really unstable. It was the time of Cold War period right after the World War 2 finished about 10 years ago. After couples of year the entire world saw a massive clash between world super power during World War 1 and 2, anyone believe that war is not the solution to solve any problems. So young generation bravely and freely to voice out their opinion about anti-war and the usage of nuclear. They do not want to see any wars anymore.
In conjunction of it, youngster’s counter-culture emerged to represent all of their voices. The counter-culture such as Punk, Mods, Hippies and Rocker lead the way. They used music as the medium to scream out their feelings and fashion to depict the reality happened all around them. These counter-culture always being misunderstood by anyone especially the authorities because of their bad attitude and harsh-criticized towards the weak of government to fix internal and external issues. The youngsters did it via music and fashion. The authority claimed them as troublesome.
Previous youth subcultures in term of fashion influenced various aspects of the Punk subculture. The Punk movement rejected the remnants of the Hippies counter-culture of the 60’s while at the same time preserving its distaste for the mainstream. Punk fashion rejected the bright colours, loose clothes, and unkempt appearances of Hippies fashion. The jeans, T-shirts, chains, accessories, eyed-charcoal, ear piercing, leather boots and leather jackets common in Punk fashion and it can be traced back to the Bikers gang and Rockers of earlier decades. The all-black attire and moral laxity of some Beatniks influenced the punk movement. Beatniks mean anti-materialistic lifestyle. Other subcultures that influenced the punk subculture, in terms of fashion, music attitude or other factors include Mods and Glam Rockers. It all was happened back in the late 60’s.

PUNK MUSIC: LOUD, FAST & STRAIGHT FORWARD

The late 60’s was the time the world saw the birth of Punk subculture. It was the energetic time where youngsters made their stand to show the world what Punk was all about. Punk’s music and fashion lead the way of movement. The subculture existed in varieties of country but America and United Kingdom made the earliest stand for this subculture. London, New York and Los Angeles are among the cities for this subculture to cultivate their movement. Punk movement related to the development of music scene. In the other word, Punk movement needs to thank to the evolution of music where the 70’s musical discoveries assisted Punk to have its own music subgenre and encouraged the youngster to be a Punk.
Firstly, let’s discuss about the period of Punk music. It had been divided into three major period, Pre-Punk took place back in early 70’s, Proto-Punk took place back in mid 70’s and Post-Punk took place back in late 70’s. 60’s pop bands such as The Beatles, The Who, The Rolling Stones, The Small Faces, The Sonic and The kinks became the major reference in term of their music by Pre-Punk bands.
The discussion about Punk needs to be initiated by the evolution of music where the sound formed the root of Punk music. Everyone claimed the early 70’s era for Punk as Pre-Punk period. Punk music originally adapted and inspired from Rock n Roll and 60’s pop music especially from The Beatles’ music style, The Who’s explicit lyric, The Rolling Stones’ Guitar work and another bands like The Small Faces, The Sonic and The Kinks. These bands had inspired the Pre-Punk bands like The Stooges, New York Dolls, The Velvet Underground, The MC5, The Modern Lovers and Captain Beefheart. All of these bands played such a huge impact in mould up Punk music root that being followed the later bands. In the other words, Pre-Punk period was such the earliest stand for Proto-Punk bands to refer the music and unconsciously invented the Punk music. Pre-Punk bands did not conscious about the aftermath of their music for the time to come where the Punk music birth. The vocalist of The Stooges, named Iggy Pop is the godfather of Punk.
The period followed by Proto-Punk period. It was the time where the original Punk sound invented. Original Punk music played with simple and short guitar-riffing intro, 2 until 3 minutes long, 3 or 4 chords played in one line, no guitar solo, fast drum beat, loud, fast, straight forward and life, politic and latest issue become the major theme of lyric. These are the elements of Punk music that easily can be found in some bands which were emerged during the period of Proto-Punk especially in the music of the legendary Punk band call Ramones. Ramones is a legendary influential band. Their music inspired any bands from the mid 70’s until today. As long as the Punk movement exist, Ramones songs become the anthem for the whole Punkers all around the globe. For instance, Ramones’ songs such as Blitzkrieg Bop and Teenage Lobotomy are covered by varieties bands from now and then. Then, Sex Pistol is another influential Punk band for Proto-Punk period. Differ from Ramones, Sex Pistol is more be remembered in term of their fashion, performance and along side with their great songs collection. Punk’s necklace called The Bollock and spiky hair are the examples for Sex Pistol’s trademark. Sex Pistol’s great song called Anarchy in the UK is another anthem for Punkers. From now and then, the musical development for this period made Punk and rock music fuse and the term Punk Rock used to call this music.
The Post-Punk period then emerged and depicted to the world about the birth of Punk music subgenre. Started by some bands like Joy Division, The Jam, The Clash, The Buzzcock and The Fall where they write music with a big influence from previous Punk bands. Some bands like Joy Division and The Clash put additional instrument like keyboard that made Post-Punk music is totally different. Their music sometimes sounds so weird and the tempos a little slow. Then, it was inspired the early 80’s Punk bands to come up with different style of music. Joy Division’s Love Will Tears Us Apart and The Clash’s London Calling are the major references for this period.
Secondly, the evolution of music during Post-Punk period caused the birth of a few Punk Music Subgenre. As Punk Rock becomes the basic sound for another subgenre, Punk music elaborated into Punk Oi, Ska Punk, Pop Punk and Hardcore Punk.
Another subgenre for punk music is Punk Oi. Another term for this subgenre is Street Punk, Street Rock or Streetpunk/Oi. The Punk Oi subgenre became a recognized genre in the late of the 70’s, emerging after the perceived commercialization of Punk music, but still before the soon-to-dominate Hardcore Punk sound. The name sound so weird. The word Oi is an old Cockney expression, simply meaning hey or hello. Although Punk Oi has come to be considered mainly a Skinhead-oriented genre, the first Oi bands were composed mostly of punk rockers and people who fit neither the Skinhead nor Punk label. Punk Oi features fast drum beat with simple pattern, simple solo, same guitar riff with Punk Rock and lyrical topics included unemployment, workers' rights, harassment by police and other authorities, football, sex, alcohol, and oppression by the government. Cockney Rejects, Sham 69, Cock Sparrer, Angelic Upstart and The 4 Skins were among the earliest bands for this subgenre. It was followed by other great bands like The Last Resort, The Oppressed, Condemned 84, Combat 84, The Business, Blitz and Infa Riot. Punk Oi music lovers enthrone The Oppressed and The 4 Skins as most influential Punk Oi bands. Their great song can be referred through The Oppressed’s Skinhead Times and The 4 Skins’ A.C.A.B. Both of these superb songs chanted by Skinhead all around the world as Skinhead worldwide anthem.
Ska Punk is a fusion music genre that combines Ska and Punk Rock. Ska Punk achieved its greatest popularity in the United States in the late 90’s, although there has also been a following worldwide. Several Ska Punk bands achieved mainstream commercial success, which in some cases continued into the 2000’s. The characteristic of Ska Punk is vary, due to the fusion of contrasting genres. The more Punk-influenced style often features faster tempos, guitar distortion, on beat Punk-style interludes (usually the chorus), and shouted vocals. The more Ska-influenced style of Ska Punk features a more developed instrumentation and a cleaner vocal and musical sound. The common instrumentation includes electric guitar, bass guitar, drums, brass instruments (saxophones, trombones or trumpets) and sometimes an organ. The first band for this subgenre is Operation Ivy. Formed back in 1987 but the band was not last for long and break up in 1989. Then, bands like The Mighty Mighty Bosstones and Less Than Jake continue the legacies of Ska Punk. Their songs become the reference for any new Ska Punk bands. The examples of songs such as All My Best from Less Than Jake and The Rascal King from The Mighty Mighty Bosstones can be referred.
On the other hand, Pop Punk is the next subgenre for Punk music. Sometime the subgenre being called Power Pop, Happy Punk, Faux Punk, Mall Punk, Pseudo Punk, Bubblegum Punk or Surf Punk. The varieties of subgenres’ nickname depicts that this subgenre more to fun, happy and love lyrical theme. The sound was started by Ramones back in late 1978 until 1983 right after they change their recent recording album for that time to more Pop. Simple intro and solo, a little slow tempo and not complicated are the trademark for Pop Punk. So, the music from Ramones, The Buzzcocks, The Jam, The Clash, The Undertones, Descendents and Bad Religion considered as pioneer of Pop Punk. The popularity of Pop Punk music increases and accepted gradually from now and then. Then, the music steadily acceptance in the mid 90’s in conjunction of the popularity of the Punk Rock bands during that time such as Green Day and The Offspring. Some of the bands are more into mainstream and even though the bands claimed themselves as Punk Rock, their musical style inspired Pop Punk bands. Later, Pop Punk is being the tip of tongue in early Millennium after some Pop Punk band and artiste conquered the mainstream chart. They are Avril Lavigne, Blink 182, Simple Plan, Sum 41, Good Charlotte and Yellowcard. Their music represents the voices of the millennium youngster.
The early 80’s also witness the emerging of another Punk music subgenre called Hardcore Punk. The big influence that forms the basic root sound of Hardcore Punk is Punk Oi. The new sound was generally thicker, heavier and faster than earlier punk rock. Just like another Punk Rock lyric, Hardcore Punk talk about the topic like politics, personal freedom, violence, social alienation, straight edge, veganism and vegetarianism, war, and the hardcore subculture itself. In term of vocal style, traditional hardcore punk vocals were more in line with traditional Punk Rock vocals, tending to be shouted as opposed to sung, albeit more aggressive than Punk Rock. However, over time, a far more guttural shout has become common place within Hardcore Punk, which bears resemblance to a death growl in its throat-driven delivery, but retains the shouting essence of it. For this subgenre, the bands like Bad Brains, Black Flag, Minor Threat and The Exploited are the most influential.

WHAT IS PUNK???

Young hood is a phase of human life where we are in the stage of looking for our own identity. Identity is such an entity of a man that will mould up someone characteristic for time to come. So, internal influence from family just like a primary and external influence from friend just like a secondary. In this case, parent as a primary influence needs to play with such a massive role to be an icon for their children. Otherwise, children will choose to copy their secondary influence to lead their way. As an instance for secondary influence, it is absolutely an artiste as the influential public figures. Then, ask ourselves who one is pretty good, primary or secondary? For those who on the right track to follow their parent to lead their way, a bright future is waiting ahead, instead those who let themselves fly away with their public figures fabrication, perhaps they will go astray.

Punk identity is pretty synonym with youngster. This movement is formed for youngsters who love to be different. Differ in term of identity, fashion, ideology, music and art of dance. The crucial is, this is not a political movement or in the other words, Youngster who Punk is free from any political jerk. Rebellious, anti-establishment and anarchy are three words to resemble Punk. These ideology shapes up what Punk is all about. These attribute live in the heart of every Punk follower and common people as well. Here obviously, do not judge a man by its cover. Do not just look at the way a man dress up without understand their heart and mind. Punk attribute always be with a man who loves to rebel, show anti-establishment manner and believe in anarchy. Punk first stand begins with these attributes. Is your life consists these three attribute? So, you are a Punk.

But, we cannot relate punk with any problems, demonstrations or vandalisms occur in our residence. In conjunction of these, Punk is always being misunderstood by public, media and authority. Punk is not a troublesome. Punk is made to reform the injustice and voice out the working class messages, the truth about Punk is not to create the problem, not to lead the demonstration and not to encourage the vandalism. Punk existence is to unveil the reality about political corruption, authority’s double-standard towards Punk culture, the massive recording company’s swindle towards independent band, reveal the media’s off-record and show to others about the equality of life. Punk would not emerge if all of these problems did not occur and if all of human life treated equally.

On the other hand, music is another reason for Punk subculture survival. Punk music contributes with such a huge impact for Punk movement. Punk music existence divided into three major periods, Pre-Punk, Proto-Punk and Post-Punk. It was such a great time where we can see that Punk music emerge gradually as time goes by. In conjunction of it, the freedom to write music for any bands relate with the status of the bands themselves whether independent or mainstream. Absolutely all of the bands love to remain independent. As the bands remain independently, the role of bands to maintain the momentum of Punk spirit is very important. Good performance, intelligent stage control and skilful to communicate with crowd needed for a band.